Grenadine Silk

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

Definition by the Silk Association of America. Grenadine yarn is a yarn composed of more than one thread of which each individual thread has been twisted in the same direction, then doubled with a reverse twist, each twist having a minimum of approximately the following number of turns per inch, depending on the number of threads used: two threads, 13/15 denier or equivalent 32 turns per inch minimum; three threads, same denier, 30 turns minimum; four threads, same denier 28 turns minimum. When more than four threads are used, the number of turns will decrease in the above proportion.

This is a dress material with an open gauze weave. Made from hard-twisted yarns; cotton, silk and wool are made use of in the many qualities on the market. Yarns are dyed and of many colours. Stripes and checks are formed by cramming, and open spaces by leaving dents empty. The weft in the cotton variety is polished yarn, dyed black. The warp is hard-twisted voile yarn, 2/40's, 2/80's, or 2/100's. This cloth is also known as Black Lenos." The example illustrated is a good style of this cloth made from 32's polished weft. The open work is obtained by empty dents, with gauze or leno at each side of the stripes to keep them together. Silk and coloured cotton is used to add extra ornament.

A very fine black thread, made of thrown silk and given a dull finish. Used for Chantilly lace.

A lining material in the 5-end satin weave, made from silk warp and hard-spun cotton weft, both yam dyed. One quality is made 184 ends and 76 picks per inch, 15 denier warp and 60's Egyptian weft.

A dress fabric in 8-shaft satin weave finished with high lustre. Made of a silk warp and worsted or mercerised cotton weft.

See Velvets. ———————— In this type of velvet only every alternate float is cut. The cutting is done on the -" long-run " frames and generally in pairs: that is the cutter has a piece of the velvet cloth stretched on a frame on either side and cuts one while walking in one direction and cuts the other on the return. ———————— Plain skirts for wearing under thin dress materials as grenadine, muslin, net, etc. Small skeins of raw silk formed for ease in winding.

A light weight silk and wool French grenadine.